Feature, Lifestyle

COS A/W 17

May 5, 2017


Autumn Winter 2017

The collection explores two key directions this season: new proportions and soft tailoring inspired by architectural lines and the experimentation of geometric drapes and rich textures – offering a new take on classic pieces.

The influence of tailoring is evident in the collection, garments are reimagined with a modern twist; a wool blend suit in burgundy features menswear-inspired voluminous slacks that drape at the feet, a tailored wool blend top with zip detail is paired with a silk ivory shirt and a long deconstructed sleeveless waistcoat feels effortless in a relaxed, unstructured material.

Taking its inspiration from the lines of architecture and industrial references, the collection experiments with the proportion of silhouettes and details – featuring exaggerated lapels, cuffs and vents, sharp pleats inspired by press folds and the use of geometric shapes.

Bold forms are complemented by innovative and technical materials inspired by experimental art and design. Fabrics are clean and compact, whilst draped and cut in interesting ways.

Accessories are inventive and forward-thinking: deep red square toed lace-up shoes with a geometric heel take centre stage alongside a structured leather shoulder bag and belt with exaggerated buckle – in the same distinctive red hue.

The focus on reinventing classics continues in menswear, taking a fresh and casual approach. A wool blend grey melange coat is given an effortless twist with rounded shoulders whilst a relaxed cotton poplin shirt in oatmeal is tucked into flat-front wide-legged wool trousers, revealing an updated and modern silhouette that accentuates the waist and shoulders.

The urban theme is exemplified in an oversized cotton utility shirt jacket in midnight green, paired alongside wide cropped trousers with a dropped crotch in the same deep shade. A long quilted technical parka highlights the focus on new materials and the significance of bold shapes in the collection.

At the heart of men’s accessories are geometric shapes – interpreted as a polished black leather square toe lace-up, structured leather tote bag and in other guises as an outdoor accessory.

The nod to architecture is referenced in the collection’s industrial palette of slate blue, charcoal grey, midnight green and cream. The tones are offset by a strong presence of red, inspired by the Italian architecture studio Pedevilla’s use of red pigmented concrete at a Tyrolean fire station. Outfits are styled together with tonal colour blocking and dark shades that create undefined border lines.


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